BUILDING THE
MAXI APOGEE I & II

STEP 1
•	Cut 4 booster fins and 4 sustainer fins from the sheet stock. Sand the faces of all the fins with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any raised grain. Round all of the fin edges except the root edge.
•	Mark one end of each motor tube as the BOTTOM.
•	Mark one end of the sustainer body as the BOTTOM.
•	Mark one end of the booster body as the BOTTOM.
•	Draw lines around both motor tubes at 1", 3", and 4 1/2" (4.5") from the BOTTOM end.
•	Mark the booster body with full-length alignment lines for 4 fins, 90 degrees apart.
•	Mark the sustainer body with alignment lines 4" long for 4 fins, 90 degrees apart, and one launch lug alignment line 2" long, 22 1/2 degrees (22.5) to one side of one fin line, and 4" up from the BOTTOM of the body tube.

STEP 2
•	Cut a slit in both motor tubes 3 1/2" (3.5") from the BOTTOM edge, just wide enough for the tip of the engine hook to fit into.
•	Cut two strips of printer paper 1" wide and 5" long.

STEP 3
•	Insert the tip of an engine hook into the slot on one of the motor tubes, with the length trailing toward the BOTTOM of the tube.
•	Apply glue on one side of the paper strip, and begin wrapping the strip around the motor tube halfway between the 1" and 3" lines. Start the wrap about 1/2" (0.5") to one side of the hook. The engine hook should be crossed twice in this process. Continue wrapping until there is no more strip remaining. Use a fingernail, or the back of a #11 blade, to seal the paper down along each side of the hook.
•	Repeat this step for the other tube and hook. 

STEP 4
•	Slide one notched CR-5060 centering ring down from the TOP of one of the motor tubes until it touches the line at 3" from the BOTTOM. The notch in the ring should align over the engine hook.
•	Slide a second notched CR-5060 centering ring up from the BOTTOM of the motor tube until it touches the line at 1" from the BOTTOM, keeping the notch aligned over the engine hook.
•	Slide one of the un-notched CR-5060 centering rings down from the TOP until it touches the line at 4 1/2" (4.5") from the BOTTOM.
•	Slip one of the CR-2050 centering rings down inside from the TOP of the motor tube, using an expended "D" or "E" motor casing as a push tool, until the ring touches the tip of the engine hook. Remove the casing.
•	Glue all three outer rings in place, with glue filets on both sides of the ring-tube joint. Glue the inner ring in place from the TOP.
•	Repeat these steps for the other motor tube and remaining centering rings.
•	Allow both motor subassemblies to completely dry.

STEP 5
•	Draw a line around the NB-60-2 bulkhead 1/2" (0.5") from one end.
•	Glue this end of the bulkhead into the clear payload body with white glue (or other clear-drying, water-based glue), pushing the bulkhead into the tube until the edge of the tube touches the line.

STEP 6
•	Draw a line around the JT-60C coupler 1" from one end, and mark this end as the TOP.
•	Glue the BOTTOM of the coupler into the TOP of the booster body, pushing the coupler inward until the TOP edge of the booster body touches the line on the coupler.

STEP 7
•	Push the TOP of one motor tube subassembly up into the BOTTOM of the booster body about 1/2" (0.5").
•	Holding the booster body TOP-DOWN, apply a heavy bead of glue around the inside of the booster body, completely covering the inner circumference.
•	Push the motor tube subassembly toward the TOP of the booster body until the BOTTOM tip of the motor hook is flush with the BOTTOM of the booster body.
•	Apply glue to the joint between the ring at 1" on the motor tube and the inside of the booster body.
•	Apply glue to the joint between the ring at 4 1/2" (4.5") on the motor tube and the inside of the booster body.
•	Allow these glue joints to completely dry.

STEP 8
•	Using a 1/4" (0.25") paint brush, apply a generous bead of glue up inside the BOTTOM of the sustainer tube, 4" from the edge. This bead should completely coat the inner circumference of the tube.
•	Insert the second motor tube subassembly into the BOTTOM of the sustainer body about 1/2" (0.5").
•	Holding the sustainer body TOP-DOWN, apply a heavy bead of glue around the inside of the sustainer body, completely covering the inner circumference.
•	Push the motor tube subassembly toward the TOP of the sustainer body until the BOTTOM tip of the motor hook is flush with the BOTTOM of the sustainer body.
•	Apply glue to the joint between the ring at 1" on the motor tube and the inside of the sustainer body.
•	Allow these glue joints to completely dry.

STEP 9
•	Attach the booster fins to the booster body along the alignment lines drawn in step 1, using jigs, clamps, and weights to ensure the fins are aligned at right angles through the center of the tube. The leading edge of the fins should be level with the TOP edge of the booster body. Use Stine's double-glue technique, described in his Handbook. Allow each fin to dry completely before moving to the next one.
•	Attach the sustainer fins to the sustainer body in the same manner as the booster fins, above. The trailing edge of the fins should be level with the BOTTOM edge of the sustainer body.
•	When all glue joints have dried, apply glue filets to the base of each fin, both sides, and allow to dry.

STEP 10
•	Attach the launch lug to the sustainer body along the alignment line drawn for it in step 1. The BOTTOM of the lug should be even with the TOP of the sustainer fins.

STEP 11
•	Assemble the parachutes (your choice of size, 12" or larger suggested) and attach the shroud lines of each parachute to one of the swivel links.
•	Attach one end of the shock chord to the TOP-INSIDE of the sustainer body, at a depth of at least 2" from the edge to clear the payload bulkhead, using a traditional folded-paper shock chord mount.
•	Attach the free end of the shock chord to the remaining swivel link.
•	Thread the screw eye into the base of the payload bulkhead, carefully remove, and force glue into the hole. Re-insert the screw eye into the hole.
•	Attach the swivel links to the screw eye.
•	Insert the nose cone into the TOP of the payload body. The fit should be snug, but not overly so. If the fit is too tight, carefully sand the shoulder of the nose cone until the fit is better. If the fit is too loose, apply a layer of clear tape, or small sticky-back labels, to the shoulder of the nose cone.

STEP 12
•	Check the fit of the booster coupler into the BOTTOM of the sustainer. The fit should be just snug that when the rocket is picked up TOP-DOWN by the booster body, the sustainer does not drop off. It should not be too tight, or it will not separate in flight. Neither should the fit be too loose, or it might separate too quickly. If it is too tight, carefully sand the BOTTOM-INSIDE of the sustainer to remove any glue that might have been left behind from the insertion of the motor tube subassembly. If all of the glue has been removed and the fit is still too tight, carefully sand the outside of the coupler. Continue checking the fit until it is correct.

STEP 13
•	Fill the balsa fins and nose cone with your choice of grain filler, and sand until smooth. Repeat as nescessary.
•	Apply your choice of primer to the booster, sustainer, and nose cone until all blemishes and the spiral of the tubes are filled and hidden, sanding and repeating this step as nescessary. Avoid getting primer on the clear payload body.
•	Apply your choice of color coats, sanding and repeating if nescessary. Avoid getting color on the payload body.

STEP 14
•	Apply a clear acrylic sealer coat over all parts of the model except for the payload body.
•	Apply decals as desired, and seal with another layer of acrylic clear coat.